海浪数值模式研究回顾与进展   总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1  

闻斌  刘俊 《海洋预报》2006,23(4):76-81

本文简单介绍了海浪的生成、发展理论,以及海浪数值模式的分类;回顾总结了国内外在海浪数值模式研究方面取得的成果。  相似文献   

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls     

冯卫兵潘丽红  洪广文 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):299-306

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.  相似文献   

Experimental study of strong reflection of regular water waves over submerged breakwaters in tandem   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Yong-Sik Cho  Jong-In Lee  Young-Taek Kim   《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(10):88-1335

A series of laboratory experiments was carried out to investigate the strong reflection of regular water waves over a train of submerged breakwaters. Rectangular and trapezoidal shapes of submerged breakwaters are employed and compared for reflecting capability of incident waves. Measured reflection coefficients of regular waves over impermeable submerged breakwaters are verified by comparing with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed. Reflection coefficients of permeable submerged breakwaters are less than those of impermeable breakwaters. The trapezoidal shape is recommended for a submerged breakwater in terms of reflecting capability and practical application.  相似文献   

Wind-driven interannual variability over the northeast Pacific Ocean     

Patrick F. Cummins  Gary S.E. Lagerloef 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2004,51(12):365

Interannual variability of the sea surface height (SSH) over the northeast Pacific Ocean is hindcast with a reduced-gravity, quasi-geostrophic model that includes linear damping. The model is forced with monthly Ekman pumping fields derived from the NCEP reanalysis wind stresses. The numerical solution is compared with SSH observations derived from satellite altimeter data and gridded at a lateral resolution of 1 degree. Provided that the reduced gravity parameter is chosen appropriately, the results demonstrate that the model has significant hindcast skill over interior regions of the basin, away from continental boundaries. A damping time scale of 2 to 3 years is close to optimal, although the hindcast skill is not strongly dependent on this parameter.A simplification of the quasi-geostrophic model is considered in which Rossby waves are eliminated, yielding a Markov model driven by local Ekman pumping. The results approximately reproduce the hindcast skill of the more complete quasi-geostrophic model and indicate that the interannual SSH variability is dominated by the local response to wind forcing. There is a close correspondence the two leading empirical orthogonal modes of the local model and those of the observed SSH anomalies. The latter account for over half of the variance of the interannual signal over the region.  相似文献   

Spring-spawning herring (Clupea harengus L.) in the southwestern Baltic Sea: do they form genetically distinct spawning waves?     

Hede Jorgensen  Hanne B.; Hansen  Michael Moller; Loeschcke  Volker 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2005,62(6):1065-1075

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Distribution of nonlinear wave crests     

J. Al-Humoud  M. A. Tayfun  H. Askar 《Ocean Engineering》2002,29(15):1929-1943

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.  相似文献   

Long Waves Associated with Bichromatic Waves   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

DONG Guohai 《中国海洋工程》2001,(2):281-289

A numerical model of low frequency waves is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the nu-merical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave setup. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved with a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in modeling low frequency waves associated with incident bichromalic waves.  相似文献   

Separation of Waves by Interpolation Method     

孙鹤泉  王永学 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(1)

1 .ＩｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎＴｏｍｅａｓｕｒｅｔｈｅｒｅｆｌｅｃｔｉｏｎｏｆｉｎｃｉｄｅｎｔｗａｖｅｓｐｒｏｄｕｃｅｄｂｙａｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｍｏｄｅｌｉｎａｗａｖｅｆｌｕｍｅｉｓａｃｏｍｍｏｎｐｒｏｂｌｅｍｗｉｔｈｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｔｅｓｔｓｏｆｗａｖｅａｃｔｉｏｎｏｎｃｏａｓｔａｌｓｔｒｕｃｔｕｒｅｓ .Ｗａｖｅｓｇｅｎｅｒａｔｅｄｂｙｔｈｅｗａｖｅ ｍａｋｅｒｐｒｏｐａｇａｔｅｆｏｒｗａｒｄｉｎｔｈｅｗａｖｅｆｌｕｍｅａｎｄａｒｅｒｅｆｌｅｃｔｅｄｂｙｔｈｅｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｍｏｄｅｌ,ａｎｄｔｈｅ…  相似文献   

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

M. Aziz Tayfun   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(11-12):1589-1622

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.  相似文献   

Three-dimensional numerical simulation of obfique wave action on vertical walls     

LI Benxia YU Xiping YU Yuxiu 《海洋学报(英文版)》2006,25(1):147-153

A three-dimensional numerical model based on the potential theory was developed to study the oblique wave action on vertical walls. A source term inside the domain was used to generate incident waves and outgoing waves were dissipated by sponge layers and transmitted by radiation boundaries. The finite difference method was used to solve the governing equations and boundary conditions in the regular transformed domain in σ-coordinate. Satisfactory agreements between the numerical predictions and experimental results of wave force were obtained. It is concluded that the maximum wave force acting on the vertical walls is induced by the obliquely incident waves rather than the normally incident waves.  相似文献